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Convolution Build Guide

Hey there. Looks like you’re building the Convolution! Let’s jump on it, shall we?

Build Compatibility​

There's currently only one revision of the Convolution PCB, so if you have a Convolution PCB, you're at the right place.

Parts List​

The Convolution keyboard kit is available here: Convolution - 65XT Keyboard Kit

  • Included with the Kit
    • Convolution PCB
    • Acrylic Case
      • 8 M2 15mm standoffs
      • 3 M2 8mm standoffs (for feet)
      • 22 M2 6mm screws
    • 4 SKUF feet
  • Additional Parts Needed
  • Tools Needed
    • Soldering iron
    • Solder
    • Screwdriver
    • Tweezers (for testing PCB)

Build Steps Summary​

  1. Prepare Acrylic Parts
  2. Test PCB
  3. Reassemble Bottom Portion of Case
  4. Add Stabilizers
  5. Add Rotary Encoders
  6. Add Switches and Solder
  7. Continue Case Assembly

Prepare Acrylic Parts​

Parts out of box

We sent the build assembled for safe travel to you! Now, your first step to your build is actually disassembling everything. Get out a screwdriver to start.

Unscrew case

After disassembly, peel off the paper (frosted version) or plastic (black version) from your Convolution case pieces.

Peel paper

As you peel each layer, it may help to stack them in the same order you peeled them, then it’s just a matter of rebuilding in reverse.

Stacking layers

Test PCB​

Take a moment to test your PCB before you start assembling!

All the RGBs should light up like this.

RGB lights on

Here's the instructions on testing the PCB: Testing Your PCB

Tweezer test

Be sure to test columns and rows, as that will be the biggest tell if anything is not working properly.

VIA key tester

Reassemble Bottom Portion of Case​

Assemble Foot Pieces​

Here comes the reassembly! Woohoo! Take the smallest piece of the foot and insert a screw and attach a standoff for each hole. Then layer each of the 3 remaining foot pieces on top.

Be sure to use the 8mm standoffs for the feet! The 15mm standoffs are for the main structure of the keyboard.

Standoffs

An easy way to tell the smallest part of the foot is seeing which piece has the smallest hole.

Foot piece comparison

Peeling protective film off acrylic foot piece

Foot piece comparison

Acrylic foot piece laid flat with screws

Positioning acrylic foot piece

Holding acrylic foot piece upright

Connect Foot to Bottom Plate​

Line up the reset button with the hole in the acrylic.

Reset button aligned with acrylic cutout

Lining up reset button hole on acrylic with PCB

Now, screw in the foot!

Screwing foot into bottom plate

Foot screwed onto bottom plate

Stack Bottom Layers​

Now that the foot is attached, let’s attach the supports for the bottom layer pieces!

Attaching standoffs to bottom layer

Similar to the foot, you’ll attach a screw and standoff for every hole, and then stack layers. Grab the 15mm standoffs and the 6mm flat head screws for this step.

Stacking bottom layer pieces with standoffs

Now grab your next 2 layers. You’ll know you’ve got them in the right order if the small one is on the bottom.

Two acrylic layers showing correct order

Be sure to have the open slot at the top. It’s above the center screw of the foot.

Pointing to open slot orientation on stacked layers

It should look like this: smallest layer on bottom expanding with each layer.

Stacked bottom layers, smallest on bottom

Add Stabilizers​

Next, make your stabilizers.

Stabilizers laid out

There are a few different ways to place your spacebar stabilizers, but here is the way if you’d like two spacebars.

Stabilizers installed on PCB for spacebar

Add Rotary Encoders​

Next, if you’d like to have rotary encoders, now is the time to solder them on. The rotary encoder(s) must be present before putting the switch plate down.

Soldering rotary encoder onto PCB

Add Switches and Solder​

Setup Support Layer and Switch Plate​

Next, add the acrylic support layer (frosted or black depending on your build) that will go in between the PCB and the switch plate.

Acrylic support layer placed over PCB

Then the thinner flexible piece over that, which is the switch plate.

Switch plate placed over support layer

It is recommended that you test each of your stabilizers before adding switches and beginning to solder. That way, you’re sure everything is working prior to solder! 🙂

Testing stabilizers before adding switches

Insert Switches​

When pushing in the rest of your switches, be sure that you hear a click, so you know it’s fully settled into its slot.

Inserting switches into switch plate

It’s a good idea to solder a switch at each of the corners and make sure everything is still snug in place.

Soldering switches at corners

Place your soldered PCB on top of the standoffs. Almost done!

PCB placed on top of standoffs

Continue Case Assembly​

Stack Top Pieces​

The three top pieces are all that remain! You know they’re in order if the layer closest to the PCB is the biggest.

Three top acrylic pieces showing correct stacking order

You’ll know the top piece by the holes for it being the smallest of the three.

Smallest hole identifying the top acrylic piece

Now, all that’s left is to tighten the top screws down.

Screwing down top pieces

It should look like this from the side when you’re done!

Side view of completed stacked case

Add SKUF Feet​

SKUF feet can go anywhere you like, but this arrangement we found works really well.

SKUF feet placement on bottom of case

Enjoy!

Completed Convolution build