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Iris Rev. 3-5

Build Compatibility

This build guide is exclusively for Rev. 3-5 of the Iris, which features pre-soldered components. For Rev. 2 PCBs, see Iris Rev. 2 Build Guide.

This guide can also be used for the Nyquist Rev. 3, as it has a very similar construction.

Videos of Builds

Build Tutorial Video by Keebio

Parts List

Here's a list of parts needed for the build:

Iris Rev. 3 kit parts laid out

Build Steps Summary

  1. Prepare components
  2. Optional additions!
  3. Add stabilizers to PCB
  4. Add switches
  5. Optional additions! Part 2
    • Solder in-switch LEDs
  6. Assemble!
  7. Re-Program Board Note
  8. Rejoice!

Prepare Components

Have your soldering iron, solder and, if you feel accident prone with your soldering (it's ok! Happens to the best of us!), a solder sucker.

Some individuals may want to lubricate their switches. If you'd like to, go ahead and do that now before starting the process. For further details on that, go here.

Get a playlist of some jams you like and get started!

Optional additions!

These items are optional additions, but if you do want them included in your board, the time to act is now.

Add 2u stabilizers to PCB

Add the 2u stabilizer if desired. Do this before installing the switch plate and switches: PCB with stabilizer installed on thumb section

Solder rotary encoder

Rotary encoder next to PCB

If adding a rotary encoder, clip the two larger mounting pins on the encoder so it can fit onto the PCB: Clipping encoder mounting pins with flush cutters

Next, add a small piece of electrical tape to cover up the clipped off pins: Electrical tape applied to encoder clipped pins

Install the encoder onto the PCB: Rotary encoder installed on PCB

Solder the encoder onto the PCB: PCBs with encoder soldered in

Add buffer for acrylic plates

If you are using acrylic plates, you may want to add something in between the bottom side of the plate and the top of the PCB. This prevents the plate from shifting around, since for a 3mm plate, the switches are unable to clip in.

Here, rolled up pieces of electrical tape is being added to the bottom of the plate before being placed onto the PCB: Acrylic switch plate with electrical tape buffer pieces

Add switches

FOR KALIH BOX AND KAILH CHOC SWITCHES - INSTALL LEDS BEFORE THIS STEP

For Kailh Box and Kailh Choc switches, there is no cutout to insert in-switch LEDs through, so the LEDs must be added first. Skip to the LED installation step and then come back to this step of switch installation.

Add switches into the switch plate. It's a good idea to add switches to the corners first and then solder them before installing the rest of them: Corner switches inserted in switch plate

Fit the switches and plate onto the PCB: Switch plate with corner switches placed on PCB

Solder the switches onto the PCB: PCBs with switches fitted ready to solder

Add the rest of the switches: All switches inserted in plate with encoder

Solder the rest of the switches onto the PCB: Both PCB halves with all switches soldered

Optional additions! Part 2

Solder in-switch LEDs

Polarity of the in-switch LEDs is important. Match up the longer leg of the LED to the + sign of the LED pins on the PCB: LED legs inserted into PCB + pad

Insert the LED through the switch and PCB: Side view of LED inserted through PCB

Double check that the longer leg matches with the + sign: LED leg aligned with + pad on PCB

Bend the LED legs out so it doesn't fall out while soldering the LED in: LED legs bent out on PCB underside

Solder the LED legs and then clip the excess length on the legs: LED legs soldered across PCB

Assemble!

Insert a screw through the top of the switch plate and attach a standoff from the bottom side of the plate: Standoff attached to switch plate edge

Repeat the process for the rest of the plate: Switch plate with all standoffs attached

Assembly Option!

If you have an acrylic middle layer, insert it now around the standoffs: Acrylic middle layer around standoffs

Put the bottom plate on and add screws: Bottom plate screwed onto standoffs

If you have an acrylic middle layer with tenting holes, here's a video on how to add bolts to it: Tenting Your Iris with Bolts

If you have a 3D-printed middle layer, see this page on installing it: Iris 3D-printed Middle Layer Installation

Default Keymap

Here's the default keymap if you need it: Iris Default Keymap

Re-Program Board Note

Oh, looking to re-program your board? Never fear! Come look here.

Rejoice!

You have a keyboard! Savor this moment of victorious keyboard construction.

Care for another build adventure?