Quefrency Rev. 2 & Sinc Rev. 1 Build Guide
Pictures to be added soon using Quefrency/Sinc PCBs! For now, Iris pictures will be used, but the build is essentially the same.
Build guide compatibility
This build guide is exclusively for Quefrency Rev. 2 and Sinc, which features pre-soldered components. For Quefrency Rev. 1 PCBs, see Quefrency Rev. 1 Build Guide
Videos of Builds
Here's a list of Quefrency Rev. 2 and Sinc Rev. 1 build videos various people have created:
- FrostyKoala - Prototype Quefrency Rev. 2 Build
- FrostyKoala - Prototype Sinc Rev. 1 Build
- VogonPT - Prototype Sinc Rev. 1 Build Stream
Here's a list of parts needed for the build:
- 1 TRRS cable
- Switches (MX-compatible ones)
- Optional parts
Here's a summary of the build steps:
- Add 2u stabilizers to PCB
- Solder rotary encoder (optional)
- Add switches to switch plate
- Solder switches
- Solder in-switch LEDs (optional)
- Note: For Kailh Box switches, LEDs must be installed before the switches.
- Assemble case
- Insert standoffs into middle layer (optional)
- Screw standoffs into switch plate
- Attach bottom plate using screws
- Re-program board (optional)
- VIA Configurator or
- QMK Configurator or
Add 2u stabilizers to PCB
Add the 2u stabilizers. Do this before installing the switch plate and switches.
Solder rotary encoder (optional)
Note: This step can be done after installing the switches as well. For the prototype plates, the encoders had to be installed first, but for the plates available on the store, the switch cutouts are now large enough to allow the encoders to be installed later.
Install the encoder onto the PCB.
Solder the encoder onto the PCB.
Add switches to switch plate and solder
For Kailh Box and Kailh Choc Switches - Install LEDs before this step
For Kailh Box and Kailh Choc switches, there is no cutout to insert in-switch LEDs through, so the LEDs must be added first. Skip to the LED installation step and then come back to this step of switch installation.
Add switches into the switch plate. It's a good idea to add switches to the corners first and then solder them before installing the rest of them:
Fit the switches and plate onto the PCB:
Solder the switches onto the PCB:
Add the rest of the switches:
Solder the rest of the switches onto the PCB:
Solder in-switch LEDs (optional)
Polarity of the in-switch LEDs is important. Match up the longer leg of the LED to the + sign of the LED pins on the PCB:
Insert the LED through the switch and PCB:
Double check that the longer leg matches with the + sign:
Bend the LED legs out so it doesn't fall out while soldering the LED in:
Solder the LED legs and then clip the excess length on the legs:
Insert a screw through the top of the switch plate and attach a standoff from the bottom side of the plate:
Repeat the process for the rest of the plate:
(Optional) If you have a middle layer, insert it now around the standoffs:
Put bottom plate on and add screws:
You can reprogram your PCBs using one of the following three methods, listed in order of difficulty (easiest to most difficult). Note that if you want to reprogram the encoders, you will have to setup the full QMK build environment (3rd option listed here), as VIA and QMK Configurator can't handle configuration of the encoders at the moment.
The PCBs are pre-flashed with QMK firmware with VIA support. VIA will allow you to reprogram the keys on your board without needing to reflash it. You can download the VIA here: VIA
The PCBs can also be programmed using QMK Configurator, where you can create your keymapping and then generate a .hex file. You can then take this .hex file and flash it using QMK Toolbox.
QMK Build Environment
The last option is to compile your own .hex file using QMK. This method is more difficult than the first two, but does allow you to use more advanced features (like tap-dance, RGB underglow control, etc.) and reprogram the encoders. To get started with setting it up, go here: The Complete Newbs Guide To QMK.
If you have trouble setting it up, head over to the QMK Discord for assistance.